"My dryer is not getting hot," is a quick money maker. It means one of several things, each of which are easy to figure out. In sequence of likelihood:
1. A bad thermal fuse on the side of the heater box. Unplug the dryer and ohms test the thermal fuse and the high limit on the heater box (limit is much less likely). Of course remove a wire from each component so your meter and you will not be fooled. Replace if open circuited.
Samsung Thermal Fuse
2. Test for 220VAC at the dryer and at the outlet. Test at the element while the dryer is running.
Trick of the Trade: An electric dryer motor will run without 220VAC and fool you. You could have a half bad circuit breaker or a bad socket.
3. Test for 220VAC at the element. If 220vac is present and there is no heat replace the element.
Test for 220VAC at the Element
4. We are now into the rare. Are you sure your tests so far were accurate? OK, double check that 220vac is entering the dryer at the terminal block. You may have a burned up terminal block.
Burned Wires At Terminal Block
Less likely but possible further issues are:
1. A bad timer, computer board, thermistor
2. Bad control thermostat
3. Bad motor centrifical switch - very rare
4. Bad heat relay or even heat board on Whirlpool products.
Whirlpool Heat Relay
Whirlpool Even Heat Board
These will require tracing the circuit using the schematic or tech sheet for your specific dryer. The tech sheets for the Whirlpool dryer shown here tell you exactly how to test this circuit.